This is a 4-cell battery; before opening it up, I was under the impression that it was a 3-cell.
The charge controller circuit board has “LIP8198” and “1-867-277-11” markings in the silkscreen, along with a strip of Kapton tape over the top of the PCB.
The PCB has +/- going to the 4 cells in series, as well as leads between each cell (probably for measuring voltage at each intermediate point), and two temp sensors: one on the battery closest to the circuit board (the one that the board’s “-” connects to) and one on the next one after that (the middle-most one).
The top side has the following ICs:
- 3182 5J94 (Looks like a tiny EEPROM/Flash)
- Two unlabelled 8-pin square ICs marked “04” and “07” on the silkscreen
- 12AH4 SC SF
The bottom has the following:
- TI bq80201DBT – “Battery ‘Gas Gauge'” for storing the cycle count?
- TI bq29312PW – “Two, Three and Four Cell Lithium or Lithium-Polymer Battery Protection AFE”
- A number of various bare-copper test points 🙂
With a bit of digging, it seems that the bq80201 is used for many different battery makes such as Sanyo, Dell, etc.
Battery EEPROM Works (Software; not affiliated with this site, I have no guarantees of how well it works)
Battery EEPROM Works Forum topic re: B80201 support (Forum Thread)
Would still be nice to actually find a listing of the I2C codes that it uses.
This is a nice item that I found today at Princess Auto… A grey box hiding on the bottom of a grey shelf. The phrase “Demo Kit” caught my eye, and I had to take a peek inside. I was blown away by the beautiful innards, and I just had to have it. It appears to be made by Flambeau (judging from the company name stamped into the front of the case) and the sticker on the lid says it is a “Brake Control Demonstration Kit”
A metal front panel (as seen in the picture) holds a set of terminals, a voltmeter, large Brake and Overload buttons along with various assisting components, such as Output and Stop lights, Battery test button, power switch, 30A removable fuse, and a panel-mount power plug that fits with the included wallwart.
Underneath the panel (picture attached below), reside a 12 Volt, 5 Amp-Hour SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) battery for powering the kit, and some type of coil or capacitor for powering the ‘overload’ button.
Bonus points for the Output and Stop Light lamps: They’re actually incandescent bulbs, not LEDs. (The power light is an LED though, presumably so you can still see that the unit is not DOA even with a near-flat battery.)
Possible uses: (besides requisite attempts to blow various electrical components up with the Overload button)
- Portable bench power supply (With an adjustable voltage regulator, and maybe an LCD display for kicks?)
- (Have any suggestions to add? Sound off in the comments!)
(NB, this doesn’t show up on Princess Auto’s website, as it’s probably a new item. It is SKU #8339715 and $19.99 at the time of posting unfortunately, no longer a stocked item.)
I just got my shipment of stuff from BGMicro, including a ton of pinheaders!
1x Velleman 4×4 keypad
1x GI AY-3-8910 Sound Chip (and matching IC socket)
2x LEDs with wire and
1x 2.5″ stero cable end (Digital Rebel XT Trigger?)
1x Graphical KS0108 Display
and Lots of 1×40 and 2×17 Pinheaders 🙂
What I Did:
I took a Cellboost IPR3 that was otherwise destined for a dull life of providing power to an original iPod Shuffle, and converted the cable normally used for charging it into a USB-A-to-2-pin cable using the cable from an old computer case’s hard drive activity light. (Using the cable is a bonus for me, since this cable has been kicking around the junkbox for ages.)
What I Wanted to Do:
I’ll be the first to admit this isn’t so much a ‘hack’ since it’s what the badge was designed to do. I had planned to populate the two 2×16 rows of headers with female headers, then put a piece of perfboard on top either with male headers pointed down or with female headers with double-length legs. The plan was to have something akin to an Arduino shield: Removable, changeable, and replaceable. What you see here is what I got done during the ‘con. I’ll post updates as I progress in badge-hacking now that the ‘con’s over.
About the Cellboost IPR3 Hardware
The Cellboost device contains 1 Li-Ion battery, 5V charging circuitry, and 5V output circuitry; the charging circuitry is the best part, since Li-Ions are a pain to charge otherwise. It includes a USB extension cable (USB-A Male to USB-A Female) that supplies power only (no wires for data) to charge the Cellboost unit with. The unit itself has a USB-A Male (for charging the Li-Ion) and a USB-A Female receptacle on it (for the iPod to plug into).
I acquired a number of these Cellboost devices from Princess Auto; at their last big clearance sale, they were on for (IIRC) $0.79 each. As an aside, I had someone at Quahogcon ask me if I had been to the MIT Garage Sale. Apparently they were sold there as well. Regardless, I still have 4 or 5 in their original packaging to be used to power other projects.
Here’s what I gained (physically) from QuahogCon 2010 (in no particular order):
(And yes, I would have preferred to photograph against a plain white background, but hey.)
For those who are curious about some of the particulars of the game, here is what I gleaned from the goings-on at the ‘con (And from a lot of borrowing Jimmie’s badge, and soliciting button-presses from random ‘con attendees).
Spoiler Warning: If you want to try to disassemble, packet-sniff, or otherwise decode the Humans vs Zombies game completely on your own, don’t read on.
Most of this is just a brain dump, it’s not really in any particular order.
I’ll add more here if/when I think of it, and once I start sniffing in earnest. I spent the entire ‘Con trying to reinvent the wheel… Apparently all the good stuff was in the q10-pub/firmware directory… I had been tweaking code in the q10-pub/tests directory. I still managed to sniff the above code, however I didn’t get transmit working in time to pwn the closing ceremonies. Totally looking forward to pwning whatever badge they throw at us next year, though.
My latest Sparkfun.com order.
For PIC programming:
BOB-00193 (1): Adapter board for Microchip ICD and ICD2
For (hopefully) adding some IR functionality to my QuahogCon badge:
COM-09349 (4): Infrared LED – 950nm
DEV-00348 (2): Olimex Carrier Board for OKI ML67Q5003
For prototyping on the Arduino (and otherwise generic prototyping):
DEV-07914 (1): Arduino ProtoShield Kit
PRT-07915 (1): Breadboard Mini Self-Adhesive (For Protoshield Kit)
PRT-09567 (1) : Breadboard Clear Self-Adhesive (For other breadboarding)
PRT-00124 (1): Jumper Wire Kit
PRT-08430 (1): Jumper Wires Premium 6″ F/F Pack of 10
PRT-08431 (1): Jumper Wires Premium 6″ M/M Pack of 10
PRT-09140 (1): Jumper Wires Premium 6″ M/F Pack of 10
When this 0.22 Farad, 2.5 Volt super capacitor’s time came, it didn’t go easily. It put up a fight: It let all of its electrolyte out through its bottom and onto the PCB, leaving a hard, crusty layer, and a capacitor that doesn’t work.
It is typically used in place of a standard “battery backup”, and possibly to retain RAM contents between short resets.
Manufacturer: Cooper Bussmann
Type: PowerStor Aerogel Type B, 0.22F 2.5V Capacitor
Digikey Part Number
Ok, so maybe it’s more suited to a different MIDIbox, say, maybe a SEQ, but this box does have sleek lines, plenty of access in the back, and a built-in 12V, 5V, -12V AC/DC power supply.
I got this little “Anadigi GPS-R02 DIY” car gps kit from eBay seller anadigi-hk, and it was mailed direct from Hong Kong.
[Edit: Apparently, the eBay Store and user are no more.]
It came with the GPS Circuit board and a little plastic case for it, an MMCX antenna with magnetic base, and a matching USB cable. The mini-CD came with drivers and a few test and diagnostic programs.
It works great; by the time my computer comes out of hibernation, it already has a signal lock. Talk about bang for the buck!
The receiver is based on the NemeriX NJ1030A [Datasheet – Archive.org], and includes WAAS/EGNOS support.
Markings on the box: (They look like the vitals for the GPS Antenna)
- Product Model: GPS
- Center Frequency: 1575.42 +/-3Mhz
- LNA Gain (Without Cable): 28dB
- Noise Figure: <1.5dB
- VSWR: <2.0
- DC Current: 10mA Max
- Mounting: Magnetic Base
- Housing: Black
- Working Temp: -40*C ~ +85*C
- Vibration: Sine sweep lg(0-p) 10~50~10Hz each axis
- Humidity: 95%-100%RH
- Weatherproof: 100% Weatherproof
- Cable Length: 3m
- Voltage: 3-5V
- Connector: MMCX
- USB to Serial Converter (onboard): PL-2303* (but the Prolific Windows driver doesn’t like it, errors with Code 10: Cannot start”, according to the Prolific website, that means it’s likely a counterfeit PL-2303 chip. I’ll have to dig out the CD that came with it again.)
Update: How to add GPS to your Eee PC @ beta.ivancover.com – That’s definitely one of the first things I’d do with an Eee.